Understanding and treating acne spots
Acne is common during puberty but also affects some adults. It primarily appears on the face, though other areas such as the back, neck, and upper chest can also be affected.

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Comedones, papules, and cysts are various types of lesions that characterise acne. Let us look closely at this condition, which can sometimes persist throughout our lives.
What is acne-prone skin?
How does acne develop?
Acne is an inflammatory condition affecting the pilosebaceous follicle. Each follicle consists of a hair and a sebaceous gland that secretes sebum. Its role? This oily substance prevents the skin from drying out.
Hormones, particularly androgens, stimulate sebaceous gland activity. During adolescence, hormonal fluctuations are especially pronounced, which explains why acne is so common at this stage. Hormonal imbalances related to the menstrual cycle or pregnancy can also worsen acne in adults.
When the sebaceous glands produce too much sebum or the sebum thickens, it clogs the hair follicle (small canal where the hair emerges from the epidermis) leading to skin lesions. This blockage occurs due to excess or overly viscous sebum and a build-up of dead skin cells (keratinocytes) that are not properly eliminated.
Cutibacterium acnes, a bacterium naturally present on the skin, also plays a role in acne. When the pores are clogged, the environment becomes favourable to its proliferation, triggering inflammation.
The different types of acne spots: blackheads, pustules, and other blemishes
Acne manifests in various forms, each requiring specific attention. Understanding each type of blemish helps in selecting the right skincare treatments to treat it effectively.
- Hyperseborrhoea, or oily skin
It is the first sign of acne. It gives the skin a shiny, greasy appearance, particularly in the T-zone (forehead, nose, chin, and sometimes the cheeks).
- Comedones
Comedones are pores clogged by sebum and dead skin cells. They come in two types: open (blackheads), or closed (whiteheads, also called microcysts). At this stage, there is no inflammation.
- Papules and pustules
These somewhat off-putting names refer to lesions that indicate acne progressing to an inflammatory stage. Papules are firm, red, and sometimes painful to the touch, pimples without pus. They may disappear on their own or develop into pustules.
Pustules are red pimples with a white top filled with pus.
- Nodules
Nodules are deep, painful lesions that develop under the skin. These large, persistent spots can last a long time and cause scarring.
- Cysts
When inflammation becomes severe, nodules can develop into cysts. These are closed pockets filled with fluid, enclosed in a fibrous capsule, and often leave scars after healing.
How does acne manifest?
Acne manifests differently from person to person, depending on the extent and type of lesions:
Common forms:
- Retentional acne: a combination of excess sebum production and comedones (both open and closed).
- Mixed acne: a combination of non-inflammatory lesions (comedones), and inflammatory lesions (papules and pustules).
Treatment also depends on the severity of the condition, which is classified using the GEA scale. This scale is used by dermatologists, and classifies skin conditions in five levels of severity:
- Stage 1 - Very mild acne: hardly any lesions, with a few scattered open or closed comedones and rare papules.
- Stage 2 - Mild acne: less than half of the face is affected, with some open or closed comedones and a few papulo-pustules.
- Stage 3 - Moderate acne: more than half of the face is affected, and a nodule may be present.
- Stage 4 - Severe acne: the entire face is affected, covered in papulo-pustules, open or closed comedones, and occasional nodules.
- Stage 5 - Very severe acne: highly inflammatory acne covering the face, with multiple nodules.
Adopting the right habits to manage acne-prone skin
Skin regeneration is essential to combat scarring. To boost this natural process, nothing beats a good skincare routine. To reduce acne scars, regularly apply peeling and keratolytic treatments, such as glycolic or salicylic acid. These products promote the exfoliation of the skin’s superficial layers, stimulate cell regeneration and help smooth out imperfections, thus making scars less visible, and improving the skin's texture.
Acne spots: friendly (and expert) advice for good hygiene
Skincare and a healthy lifestyle are your friends when it comes to getting rid of acne pimples.
Some good habits to combat blemishes and acne
Clean your skin twice a day with a gentle, soap-free gel. Make sure to remove your makeup thoroughly every evening, using a product suited for acne-prone skin, such as Avène Cleanance Micellar Water and Cleanance Purifying Cleansing Gel. These steps are essential to help skincare products penetrate better.
Avoid rubbing your face while washing, as it can worsen inflammation. Instead, be gentle. Exfoliators are allowed, provided they are non-abrasive and suitable for sensitive skin.
Put away the products containing alcohol or antiseptics. These are not recommended as they are ineffective, irritating, and/or sensitising.
Hydrate your skin. Contrary to popular beliefs, oily and acne-prone skin also needs moisture. Simply choose products tailored to your skin’s needs. Opt for a lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturiser. Hydration also helps improve tolerance to anti-acne treatments.
Wisely choose your makeup: for tinted creams or foundations, carefully read the packaging and select non-comedogenic products, such as those from our Couvrance range.
Protect your skin from the sun. Sun exposure can worsen acne and encourage the appearance of pigmented scars. Protecting yourself from the sun is even more important if you use photosensitising or irritating products to treat acne. Use a sun cream suitable for acne-prone skin, with a light texture, and a minimum SPF of 30. Sun protection should be used daily for UV protection in summer and winter.
Avoid picking at your skin and blemishes. This will help reduce the risk of other lesions appearing. Do not squeeze them either, as impurities could penetrate deeper into your skin, potentially leading to scars.
Our solutions to care for acne-prone skin
Eau Thermal Avène skincare products are designed to help you feel better in your skin and effectively tackle acne spots.
Effective treatments for acne and scars
Once a pimple has formed, how can you make it disappear?
To get rid of acne spots, follow the recommended skincare habits mentioned earlier and consider booking an appointment with a dermatologist who can advise you on the most suitable treatments for your skin. Even if it is tempting, avoid scratching, squeezing, or popping your spots.
You can use our Cleanance Comedomed solution to reduce blemishes and prevent their recurrence.
Preventing and treating acne scars: solutions for smooth skin
It is important to be mindful of the marks that can appear after breakouts. These marks can linger long after the pimples have disappeared, but there are ways to prevent and reduce them.
To prevent scars, avoid picking at comedones, papules, and pustules, and act quickly to treat acne properly. Keeping your skin hydrated is also essential, regularly apply a nourishing and soothing non-comedogenic moisturiser. It will help maintain skin suppleness and minimise the risk of scarring. Our Cleanance Hydra cream nourishes, soothes, and restores the skin barrier.
If, despite your best efforts, acne scars appear on your face or body, they can still be treated. Use healing creams and gels to speed up skin regeneration. You can also use Cleanance Comedomed Peeling cream, which targets visible imperfections, exfoliates the skin, and stimulates cell renewal.
Other treatments, such as laser therapy and chemical peels, are available. These procedures should always be performed by healthcare professionals who can assess whether they are suitable for your skin.
The importance of consulting a dermatologist
If you suffer from severe or persistent acne, consult a dermatologist or general practitioner to find an effective treatment, tailored to your skin. A skincare professional can provide an accurate diagnosis, recommend the most suitable acne treatment, and help you avoid complications such as scarring. In addition, a dermatologist will be able to adjust treatments according to the specific characteristics of your skin type, taking into account the hormonal and environmental factors that influence your acne.
Managing acne at all ages: different needs for teenagers and adults
Acne affects both teenagers and adults.
There are many causes of acne :
- Genetics play a role, and some forms of acne run in families. If one or both of your parents had acne, you are more likely to develop it.
- Stress seems to be involved in acne breakouts. The sebaceous glands are surrounded by numerous nerve cells that can produce a substance called substance P. This substance is released in case of stress and can stimulate sebum production.
- Hormones play a key role. Acne usually begins at puberty, primarily due to the influence of sex hormones.
The specifics of acne depending on the stage of life
Teenage acne is the most common form, occurring due to the hormonal changes associated with puberty. As a result, teenagers often experience moderate to severe acne, including comedones, papules, pustules, and even cysts. Since the main cause is hormonal fluctuations, teenage acne is usually temporary and tends to improve after the age of 18-20.
Pre-pubertal acne, although less common, can occur in children before puberty. It typically presents as small comedones and pimples, mainly on the forehead, nose and chin. This form of acne is often linked to minor hormonal changes and an increased sensitivity of the sebaceous glands. Although usually milder than teenage acne, maintaining good skincare hygiene is recommended to manage and prevent breakouts.
Adult acne is also common, particularly in women.
- When acne appears or persists after the age of 25 for a woman, a hormonal imbalance should be investigated if no other cause has been identified (acne triggered or worsened by medication or the use of comedogenic skincare products / acne aggravated by frequent touching or improper cosmetic treatment).
- Hormonal changes due to pregnancy, stopping or starting birth control pills can also contribute to acne breakouts.
Acne in teenagers: the psychological and social impact
More than just an aesthetic concern, acne can have a significant psychological impact on teenagers. Adolescence is a time of self-discovery, where physical appearance plays a crucial role in self-esteem. Low self-esteem, social withdrawal, and anxiety are some of the emotional consequences that young people with acne may experience.
Establishing a skincare routine with suitable products can help teenagers navigate this period more confidently, reducing the impact of acne on their daily lives.
Common mistakes and misconceptions about acne: separating fact from fiction
There are many misconceptions about acne. Here are some common myths and the most common mistakes to avoid:
- “Acne is caused by poor hygiene”
This is completely false. In fact, overwashing your face can irritate the skin. Instead, follow a gentle and regular skincare routine suited to your skin type.
- “Acne goes away on its own”
While mild acne may clear up over time, severe and persistent acne often requires specific treatment to prevent scarring and infections.
- “Popping pimples makes them disappear faster”
Once again, this belief is completely wrong. Squeezing a pimple can actually spread bacteria, worsen inflammation, and increase the risk of scarring. Instead of touching blemishes, apply targeted treatments that help dry out spots and reduce inflammation while being gentle on your skin.
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