Acne on the lip: causes and solutions

The area around the lips is also fragile: subject to friction, heat, and humidity – it is prone to skin blemishes. But be careful: not all pimples that appear near the lips are the same. Their causes and treatments vary. In this article you will learn how to recognise an acne pimple on the lip, understand what might cause it, and, most importantly,  which steps to take to gently soothe it.

Acne on the lip: one pimple, several possible causes

An acne pimple is the visible manifestation of an imbalance beneath the skin. It is most often the result of excess sebum combined with a buildup of dead cells in the pores. This creates a favorable environment for the proliferation of certain bacteria naturally present on the skin's surface, such as Cutibacterium acnes, which causes inflammation.

On the face, the “seborrheic” areas — such as the forehead, nose, chin, and around the lips — are particularly prone to breakouts. When the sebaceous glands produce too much sebum or when local hygiene is inadequate, a pimple may appear. It can take different forms (comedones, papules, pustules) and be confused with other skin lesions, such as those associated with herpes.

These lesions can correspond to different types of acne, with varying degrees of inflammation. To accurately identify them, consult our guide on the different types of acne.

The differences between acne pimples and cold sores on the lip

A spot on, or around, the lip can be confusing. Is it a breakout, or a cold sore (commonly known as a fever blister)? These two conditions have very different causes and symptoms, but may share similar triggers, such as stress or fatigue.

Before choosing a treatment or adopting a skincare routine, the first step is to identify the nature of the pimple. Acne pimples and cold sores require different approaches. What works for one will not suit the other.

How to recognise an acne pimple?

Acne pimples often appear as small red bumps that are sensitive to touch, located just above or below the lip, rarely directly on the mucous membrane. It sometimes contains a white spot (pustule), is slightly painful, but usually does not cause an itching or burning sensation.

Its appearance changes over a few days: first discreet, it may become inflamed, then dry out and disappear. Unlike a cold sore, it does not form clusters of blisters or scabs after bursting.

How to recognise a cold sore?

A cold sore, or fever blister, begins with a tingling, burning, or itching sensation around the lip. Soon, small blisters filled with fluid appear, generally in clusters. These blisters eventually burst, leaving a scab, which heals within a few days.

Unlike acne, herpes is often more painful and recurrent. It is linked to a viral infection (Herpes simplex virus type 1, HSV-1).

Acne and cold sores: common triggering factors

Although their causes differ, certain situations can promote the appearance of both types of breakouts:

• Chronic stress, which weakens the immune system and stimulates the sebaceous glands.
• Fatigue and lack of sleep, which disrupt the skin's natural defences.
• Prolonged exposure to the sun without adequate protection, which can cause a “rebound effect” of acne or a cold sore outbreak.
• Poor hygiene or contact with contaminated objects (lip balms, razors, towels…).

When in doubt, consult a healthcare professional, especially if the lesions recur or persist.

What causes acne breakouts on the lips?

Acne breakouts on the lips are often linked to excess sebum combined with clogged pores. This can be worsened by:

• The use of certain cosmetic products (comedogenic lip balms, long-lasting lipstick, rich or oily creams…).
• Frequent mask-wearing, which promotes heat and humidity around the mouth, creating an environment conducive to blemishes. This is known as “maskne.”
• Upper lip hair removal, which can irritate the skin or cause micro-lesions that can lead to breakouts.
• Frequent gestures, such as touching your mouth or placing your hands on your face, which can transfer impurities onto your skin.
• Hormonal imbalances, particularly around menstruation or at certain times of life (adolescence, pregnancy…).

These various factors can disrupt the skin's barrier and promote localised inflammation.

The right steps to soothe acne breakouts on the lips

On this delicate and sensitive area, opt for targeted, non-irritating skincare products formulated for acne-prone skin.

At Avène, the Cleanance range offers dermatologically tested formulas designed to care for acne-prone skin, even in localised areas.

To find out more, discover our advice on acne and available treatments.

Preventing lip pimples

The area around the lips is constantly exposed to irritation caused by food residue, toothpaste, and certain cosmetic products. To limit the appearance of pimples, be sure to thoroughly rinse your skin after brushing your teeth to avoid prolonged contact with toothpaste, as it can be irritating. To help preserve the skin barrier, moisturise locally using a non-comedogenic product suitable for blemish-prone skin. In addition, regularly change your towel and use a separate one for your face to help to reduce bacterial growth and protect the skin.

Cosmetics: which products should you choose? Which ones should you avoid?

Certain products applied to, or around, the lips can cause pores to become blocked, leading to the appearance of pimples. To avoid this:

• Choose non-comedogenic lip balms that do not contain mineral oils or thick waxes.
• Avoid long-lasting or very matte lipsticks. These are usually more occlusive.
• Clean your make-up tools (brushes, sponges…) weekly to prevent bacterial growth.
• Remove your make-up thoroughly every evening, paying particular attention to the area around the mouth.

When should you see a dermatologist for lip pimples?

Although pimples around the lips are generally harmless, certain situations warrant a visit to a healthcare professional. A dermatologist can help you get an accurate diagnosis, especially if the lesions persist or recur frequently.

Consult a dermatologist if:

• The pimples are painful, swollen, or accompanied by significant redness.
• They do not disappear after several days, despite a suitable skincare routine.
• They leave marks, scars, or pigment spots.
• Your acne affects other areas of the face or body, beyond the lip contour.

Medical advice will help you establish a skincare routine tailored to your skin type, and adopt a more targeted approach if necessary.

Early treatment also helps reduce the risk of residual marks. If your skin already presents these marks, discover our tips to better understand acne scars.

Good to know: if you are unsure about the origin of a lesion (such as cold sores, for example), you can simply consult your general practitioner. They will be able to diagnose the problem and recommend a suitable treatment without you having to wait for an appointment with a dermatologist.