Blackheads: prevention and effective solutions
There is no shortage of advice when it comes to blackheads. From masks and extractions to homemade remedies, it can be tricky to separate fact from fiction. Here are our experts’ recommendations to help prevent and banish blackheads for good.
What is a blackhead?
Blackheads, also known as “open comedones”, are small sebum plugs trapped under the skin. They form inside the pores, the tiny openings on the skin’s surface that play a role in eliminating excess sebum. When a pore is clogged with a mix of sebum and dead skin cells, exposure to air oxidises the buildup, turning it black. Hence, the name “blackhead”.
Unlike red or white pimples, papules or pustules, blackheads are a type of non-inflammatory acne. They can appear at any age, and are often accompanied by closed comedones (commonly known as “whiteheads”). Blackheads are neither painful, nor dangerous: they are mainly an aesthetic nuisance, as they tend to develop on the face.
How do blackheads form?
When the skin produces too much sebum, it can accumulate with dead skin cells and have difficulties draining out, gradually clogging the pores. A micro-comedo then forms under the skin. Initially invisible, the sebum eventually oxidises upon with air, resulting in the appearance of a blackhead.
This overproduction of sebum (or “hyperseborrhea”) can be triggered by various factors, including genetics and hormones. This explains why many teenagers experience acne during puberty. Hormonal fluctuations that take place in the body at this age cause it.
Blackheads and dilated pores : learn how to tell them apart
Though they are often confused, blackheads and dilated pores are two very distinct skin concerns, even if they are sometimes connected.
Blackheads are the result of a sebum and impurities buildup. They can be recognised by the visible black plug at the pore’s surface. Blackheads can be treated with suitable exfoliating and deep cleansing treatments.
Dilated pores, on the other hand, are skin openings that have stretched over time, often due to excess sebum production or a loss of skin elasticity. Unlike blackheads, they are not clogged and do not contain oxidised buildup. Instead, they give the skin a rough, uneven texture without any dark spots. To get rid of them, or prevent any further enlargement, it is essential to use skincare products designed to tighten pores, such as our Cleanance range.
With Cleanance Comedomed Anti-Blemish Concentrate, you can effectively treat blackheads while refining pores, leaving your skin clearer and more even.
What are the causes of blackheads?
Blackheads can appear for several reasons. They are often related to factors that influence sebum production and the general condition of the epidermis. Discover the main factors that encourage their development.
Hormones and diet: a duo that influences your skin’s health
Hormonal fluctuations are the first factor promoting blackheads, especially during adolescence, pregnancy, or menstruation. Hormones such as androgens stimulate the sebaceous glands, which then produce more sebum. As a result, this can block the pores and lead to blackheads.
Diet could also influence sebum production.
Stress and pollution: the two invisible enemies of your complexion
Often overlooked, stress is a major trigger for the appearance of blackheads, along with other skin problems. During stressful periods, the body produces more cortisol, a hormone that can increase sebum production, the main cause of blackheads. Note: stress can also be a consequence of acne, creating a vicious cycle!
Exposure to pollution also has harmful effects on the skin. Pollutant particles settle on the skin’s surface, clogging the pores and exacerbating excess sebum. These particles can also cause inflammation, creating an ideal environment for blackheads to appear. Therefore, it is essential to cleanse your face thoroughly at the end of the day to remove these impurities and protect the skin from external aggressions.
Separating fact from fiction on blackheads
There are many misconceptions about blackheads. To better understand these small blemishes, and know how to combat them, here are some of the most common myths and the truth behind them.
Myth 1: "They are caused by poor hygiene"
While insufficient cleansing of the face can lead to an accumulation of sebum and impurities, blackheads are not caused by poor hygiene. They form because of excess sebum and dead skin cells blocking the pores. Even someone with a strict skin care routine can have blackheads, especially if their skin is naturally oily or acne-prone.
Myth 2: "Popping them is the best way to get rid of them"
We advise against popping blackheads with your fingers or using inappropriate tools like tweezes. This can damage the skin, cause inflammation, and even leave scars. A professional extraction performed by a dermatologist, or the use of cleansing treatments, are safer and much more effective solutions in the long term.
Myth 3: "The sun makes them disappear"
Yes, the sun can temporarily improve the appearance of your skin by drying out blemishes. However, it also thickens the epidermis, which can lead to clogged pores in the long run. Make sure to protect your skin properly when exposed to the sun. Use a sun protection suited to your face’s needs.
Myth 4: "They will eventually disappear on their own"
If only it were that simple! Unfortunately, without proper action, blackheads usually do not go away on their own. Adopting a suitable skincare routine is essential to effectively treat them and prevent their reappearance.
How to get rid of blackheads?
Nowadays, many so-called miracle treatments are promoted online, especially on social media. However, most of them are ineffective, or even harmful to the skin.
The only way to get rid of blackheads is to apply appropriate skincare products and allow your skin to do the work. The most effective active ingredients in Avène’s range are:
- Comedoclastin™: a patented active ingredient developed by Pierre Fabre Research that prevents and reduces the formation of micro-comedones, thus stopping blackheads from appearing.
- Milk Thistle Oil: a plant-based active ingredient with patented properties from Pierre Fabre Research.
- Avène Thermal Spring Water: thanks to its signature mineral and biological composition, it has soothing properties and contains an anti-dryness active ingredient.
Which products to choose and which to avoid?
To effectively treat blackheads, use skincare products suited to your skin type and specifically formulated to target this concern. Here are some recommendations to achieve the best results while avoiding aggravating the issue.
What Avène experts recommend
- Gentle soap-free cleansers: these remove excess sebum and impurities without stripping the skin. Choose a cleanser designed for oily and blemish-prone skin.
- Exfoliants: an AHA exfoliating serum is ideal for daily use to unclog pores and gently remove dead skin cells, while Cleanance Comedomed Peeling offers a more intensive exfoliation.
- Masks: the Cleanance Detox Mask is a powerful ally in your fight against blemishes. Unlike traditional clay masks, it purifies and tightens pores and provides comfort.
- Targeted active ingredients: incorporate creams or serums containing Comedoclastin™, such as the Comedomed concentrate from Avène’s Clearance range.
Ingredients to avoid if you have blackheads
- Comedogenic oils : some oils, such as coconut oil, can clog the pores and worsen blackheads.
- Harsh exfoliants : scrubs or aggressive exfoliating brushes can irritate the skin and trigger an overproduction of sebum. Note: the French Society of Dermatology (SFD) advises against scrubs for acne-prone skin.
Comedoclastin™: your ally against blackheads
Comedoclastin™ works directly on blackheads and blemishes, while also preventing the formation of new comedones. Discover our Cleanance Comedomed Anti-Blemish Concentrate, for immediate targeted action and anti-recurrence effect for a year.
Professional extraction: a safe and effective solution
Blackheads are relatively easy to extract, and the temptation to remove them yourself is often strong. However, it is best to avoid doing so, as improper extraction can be incomplete and cause inflammation within the pore, leading to poor healing. Also, steer clear of popular charcoal masks. They are often too harsh on the skin, causing irritation, and stimulating excess sebum production.
When should you consult a dermatologist?
If blackheads persist despite an appropriate skincare routine, or if extraction becomes necessary, consulting a dermatologist is a wise choice. A professional can recommend chemical peels, expert extractions, or medical treatments to effectively regulate sebum production.
Daily skincare to prevent blackheads
To limit blackheads breakouts, adopting an effective skincare routine is essential. A good anti-blackhead routine consists of daily skincare steps that help prevent the formation of micro-comedones, along with treatments to be applied during the active phase to help blackheads disappear.
The two main causes of acne breakouts on the face are sebum overproduction and the presence of bacteria. By targeting these two issues on a daily basis, you will avoid this problem. To do this, here is our recommended skincare routine:
- Cleansing: wash your face twice a day with a purifying cleanser, such as Cleanance Cleansing Gel, to remove makeup, dirt and sebum build-up that could clog your pores.
- Hydration: Apply a non-comedogenic moisturising cream immediately after cleansing. When the skin is dehydrated, it produces more sebum, which can lead to breakouts. Hydration is therefore an essential step in preventing acne pimples. If you have oily skin, opt for a mattifying and anti-blemish cream like Cleanance Mattifying Care.
- Exfoliation: use an exfoliating treatment such as Cleanance Detox Mask once a week to deeply purify your skin. Do not forget to follow up with a hydrating product.
For optimal results, explore our skincare designed for blemish-prone skin.
- Cleanance Comedomed Anti-Blemish Concentrate: a lightweight formula that works quickly to visibly reduce blackheads and regulate sebum production.
- Cleanance Cleansing Gel: a daily cleanser that purifies the skin while maintaining its natural balance.
Why choose non-comedogenic products?
If your skin is prone to blackheads, it is essential to opt for non-comedogenic products. Comedogenic products can clog the pores and worsen blemishes, whereas non-comedogenic formulas are designed to minimise the risk of pore blockage. This means they do not contain ingredients that promote the formation of comedones, such as certain heavy oils or large concentration of silicones.
The Eau Thermal Avène Cleanance range products are a reliable choice for preventing blackheads while maintaining your skin’s natural balance. Non-comedogenic and especially developed for oily, combination, or acne-prone skin, these products help keep your skin healthy while reducing the risk of new breakouts.
Makeup and hygiene: the right habits to adopt
Makeup can have various effects on blackhead-prone skin. If poorly chosen or misused, it can clog the pores and contribute to the formation of new blemishes. To limit the risks, choose foundation, powders, and concealers formulated to be non-pore-blocking. Before applying makeup, apply a non-comedogenic moisturiser to create a protective barrier between your face and the makeup. Also, make sure to remove your makeup every evening with a gentle cleanser designed for blemish-prone skin, such as Cleanance Micellar Water.
Beyond selecting the right makeup products, it is essential to have good daily hygiene. To do this, wash your face morning and evening with a gentle cleanser, to remove excess sebum, sweat, and impurities accumulated throughout the day and night. Properly hydrate your skin, even if it is oily. Finally, regularly clean your makeup brushes and other accessories, as they can harbour bacteria.
By combining suitable makeup and a consistent hygiene routine, you provide your skin with a healthy environment to prevent blackheads from appearing, and promote a radiant complexion. Choose the best products for your skin with the Avène Cleanance range.
Skincare for acne flare-ups
If, despite your daily skincare routine, blackheads still appear on your face, here is a list of active ingredients in topical treatments that a doctor may prescribe:
- Retinoids, including medication such as Roaccutane.
- Benzoyl peroxide, which neutralises acne-related bacteria, and helps unclog pores.
- Antibiotics, such as minocycline, are often prescribed for moderate and severe acne to reduce bacteria and inflammation.
- Azelaic acid, found in products like Skinoren.
Consult your dermatologist to choose the right combination of treatments. Some of these ingredients can be irritating and must be used correctly to be fully effective.
Do blackheads leave scars?
Like any comedo, a blackhead can leave a scar if it is improperly extracted or gets infected. This is why it is important to not touch it with your hands, and leave extractions to a professional.
If necessary, your dermatologist may also prescribe a healing treatment, like our protective cream Cicalfate+, to be applied once the blackhead has completely healed. This type of treatment helps the skin regenerate and prevents the formation of visible scars
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