Prevent the appearance of comedones

Understanding and effectively treating comedones

Have you noticed blemishes on your face? Could be acne? Or perhaps only a comedo?

A comedo can be the first sign of emerging acne. A small blemish that is often overlooked but can affect your skin’s quality. Discover how to prevent their appearance and treat your skin with a targeted skincare routine.

What is a comedo?

A comedo is a primary form of acne, often recognised as the initial stage of breakouts, that can develop into more severe pimples. These are small bumps commonly found on the skin, formed when the pores get clogged with excess sebum (a natural oil produced by the skin), dead skin cells, and sometimes bacteria. 

There are two main types of comedones:

  • Open comedones, or blackheads. When the pore is clogged but stays open at the surface of the skin, its content oxidizes and gives the comedo a black appearance, hence the term “blackhead”.
  • Closed comedones, or whiteheads. When the pore is clogged and the skin’s surface stays closed, the comedo appears as a small, white bump on the skin, commonly known as a “whitehead”.


By comparison, other types of pimples are usually caused by inflammation and can include: 

  • Papules, small, inflamed pink or red lesions without pus.
  • Pustules, similar to papules but containing pus, often appear with a red base and a white top.
  • Nodules and cysts: more severe forms of acne characterised by deep, often painful inflammation that can lead to scarring.

Comedones: where do they come from?

Comedones form due to several factors: 

  • Excessive sebum production: people with oily skin tend to produce more sebum, which can easily lead to clogged pores.
  • Dead skin cells’ accumulation: if the skin is not regularly exfoliated, dead skin cells can build up and mix with sebum, forming a blockage.
  • Hormonal factors: hormonal fluctuations, such as those occurring during puberty, pregnancy, or due to certain medical conditions, can increase sebum production and dead skin cells’ retention (keratinocytes). 
  • Use of certain cosmetic products: using comedogenic cosmetics production can contribute to pore clogging.

It is important to note that, contrary to popular belief, comedones do not form due to dirt, but rather from the accumulation of sebum and dead skin cells. Excessive cleansing can actually worsen comedones by irritating the skin and stimulating even more sebum production.

Sebum plays an important role in forming and maintaining the skin’s hydrolipidic film. This film prevents skin dehydration, supports the balance of the skin’s microbiome, and improves skin comfort and texture. When the skin is attacked (for example by excessive cleansing), sebum production is naturally stimulated to compensate.
 

How to get rid of comedones?

Cleansing routine for comedones

1. Adopt a suitable cleansing routine

Use cleansers containing Comedoplastin™, a patented plant-based active ingredient developed by Pierre Fabre Research. For instance, the Cleanance cleansing gel does not contain salicylic acid. 

If you wear makeup or sun cream, opt for double cleansing to deeply cleanse your pores. You can start with micellar water, such as the one from the Cleanance range, to remove impurities effectively.

2. Exfoliate your skin regularly

Products containing AHAs (glycolic acids) are perfect for a regular chemical exfoliation, helping to dislodge comedones without irritating the skin.

Exfoliate your skin regularly
Use appropriate topical treatments

3. Use suitable treatments

Creams and gel containing retinoids—vitamin A derivatives—also help prevent blackhead formation. They should be avoided during pregnancy. To reduce comedones and treat inflammatory acne, localised application of products containing benzoyl peroxide or azelaic acid is also effective.

4. Seek professional, medical treatments

For a safe and sterile removal of comedones, consult a dermatologist. These professionals can perform acne microsurgery, a deep skin cleansing that targets the skin beyond the stratum corneum (outer layer) of the skin, particularly if previous treatments have been insufficient.

Use professional treatments
Change your lifestyle habits

5. Change your lifestyle

A diet rich in fresh fruits and vegetables, along with good hydration, can help maintain skin health from the inside out. Managing stress can also have beneficial effects on the skin and help prevent acne and comedones.

6. Use non-comedogenic products

Ensure that you exclusively use products labelled as non-comedogenic, as these will not clog your pores.

Use non-comedogenic products

Comedones: natural solutions and treatments

Clay masks are gentle on the skin and offer purification without being too harsh. However, medical treatments such as retinoids and exfoliating acids are generally more effective against persistent comedones. They act deeper to regulate sebum production and accelerate cell renewal.

  • Opt for exfoliants that are suitable for your skin to avoid irritation.
  • Apply our Detox mask: with its exclusive blend of concentrated absorbent clays (19%) and exfoliating perlite, it purifies, mattifies, and tightens pores in just 5 minutes.

 

 

My Avène routine

Ingredients to favour or avoid in case of comedones

Beneficial ingredients

  • A precursor to retinoic acid, this is one of the best active ingredients to get rid of comedones. It promotes cell renewal and prevents the formation of new pimples

    Retinaldehyde

    A precursor to retinoic acid, this is one of the best active ingredients to get rid of comedones. It promotes cell renewal and prevents the formation of new pimples

  • An antioxidant ingredient that reduces blackheads by limiting sebum oxidation.

    Synovea™ HR

    An antioxidant ingredient that reduces blackheads by limiting sebum oxidation.

  • A patented active ingredient from Pierre Fabre Research that reduces micro-comedones formation and, consequently, prevents blackheads from developing.

    Comedoclastin™

    A patented active ingredient from Pierre Fabre Research that reduces micro-comedones formation and, consequently, prevents blackheads from developing.

  • Creams containing antibiotics also target bacteria. However, they are reserved for the most severe cases.

    Antibiotics

    Creams containing antibiotics also target bacteria. However, they are reserved for the most severe cases.

    Ingredients to avoid for comedo-prone skin

    • Heavy oils, such as coconut oil, which can clog pores.
    • Alcohol. It can dry out the skin, leading to increased sebum production.
    • Artificial fragrances and colourants. They can irritate the skin and worsen acne.

    FAQ on comedones

    Squeezing or extracting comedones may seem like a quick fix to improve the skin’s appearance, but it is discouraged for several reasons. First, handling blackheads with fingers or non-sterile tools can introduce bacteria into the pores, increasing the risk of inflammation and infections. Additionally, this can lead to scars or permanent marks. It is therefore best to treat comedones using gentle and hygienic methods, such as exfoliating products, or consulting a dermatological professional for appropriate treatment.

    Yes. If the comedo is infected by bacteria, it can get inflamed and turn into a pimple. This is why it is important to treat blackheads with the right products and maintain good hygiene to prevent worsening.

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