When faced with these blemishes, it is essential to adopt a suitable skincare routine. And at the heart of that routine is : anti-acne creams. These are formulated to treat existing pimples, limit post-inflammatory marks, and prevent new blemishes from appearing. By targeting excess sebum, the bacteria responsible for inflammation and regulating cell renewal, anti-acne creams provide a comprehensive dermatological and cosmetic solution. However, it is important to choose the right cream for your skin and know how to properly use it.
How to choose the right acne cream?
Understanding your skin’s needs
Before choosing an acne cream, you need to identify your skin type. A cream that is too rich can worsen shine, while a formula that is too drying can cause redness and discomfort. Here's how to make the right choice:
- Oily skin: characterised by excessive sebum production, a shiny appearance, and enlarged pores. This skin type is particularly prone to comedones, blackheads, inflammatory pimples, and microcysts. Choose a light, non-comedogenic, mattifying cream that helps regulate sebum without clogging pores.
- Combination skin: this combines an oily T-zone (forehead, nose and chin) with drier cheeks. The ideal solution is a balancing cream that moisturises, regulates sebum and treats blemishes without weakening sensitive areas.
- Dry skin: although less common in people with acne, dry skin can be prone to blemishes. It requires a non-comedogenic moisturising formula that can restore the skin barrier while treating pimples.
- Sensitive and redness-prone skin: if your skin reacts easily or is prone to redness, choose hypoallergenic and soothing formulas that are fragrance- and alcohol-free.
Are you undergoing isotretinoin-based medical treatment (such as Roaccutane)? If you are, your skin barrier may be weakened. It is essential then essential to use a repairing and lipid-replenishing skincare products in addition to your acne treatment.
Complete your free skin diagnosis in just a few minutes
What is a good habit to have? Always use a non-comedogenic cream, i.e. one that is formulated not to clog pores. This is an essential criterion to help prevent the appearance of new blackheads, whatever your skin type.
Which ingredient should you look for in products if you have acne?
Effective acne creams do not just mask imperfections: they deeply treat the skin with targeted dermatological active ingredients. Here are the ingredients to look for in a good acne cream:
- Salicylic acid: this exfoliating active ingredient (BHA) unclogs pores, removes dead skin cells, and limits the formation of comedones. It is particularly recommended for blackheads or thick skin. Salicylic acid is well tolerated when formulated in light textures tailored for sensitive skin.
1.5 times more effective than salicylic acid, the two patented natural acids in Avène’s Cleanance AHA Exfoliating Serum are lactic acid (AHA) and succinic acid. They work in synergy to gently exfoliate the skin, reduce imperfections, tighten pores, and smooth the skin's texture. This formula refines the skin's texture in just 10 days.
Suitable for sensitive and acne-prone skin, this serum contains 99% naturally sourced ingredients, is fragrance- and alcohol-free, and is enriched with Avène Thermal Spring Water to soothe and rebalance the skin. Its fluid, lightweight texture absorbs quickly, making it ideal for daily use.
- Benzoyl peroxide: the go-to antibacterial agent that eliminates the bacteria responsible for inflammation. It is powerful, but can sometimes dry out the skin: it is best to start with low concentrations and use a moisturising cream as a complement. Caution: benzoyl peroxide can also stain or discolour clothing, sheets, or towels it comes into contact with. Make sure you allow the product to dry thoroughly before getting dressed.
Good to know: two types of topical treatments are available as a first-line approach: benzoyl peroxide and topical retinoids such as tretinoin (0.025% or 0.05%) or adapalene (0.1%), which work by regulating cell renewal and unclogging pores.
- Niacinamide (or nicotinamide): this soothing, anti-inflammatory active ingredient helps reduce redness, calm irritation, and strengthen the skin barrier. It is also effective at fading post-acne marks.
- Retinaldehyde: a mild vitamin A derivative that promotes cell renewal and acts on persistent blemishes without the irritation often associated with traditional retinoids. It is found in certain targeted skincare products such as Avène Cleanance COMEDOMED PEELING cream. Please note: although less photosensitising than other retinoids, retinaldehyde is still an active ingredient that should only be used in the evening. It is essential to apply sun protection the following morning to protect the skin from UV rays.
- Another key active ingredient from Pierre Fabre research is Comedoclastin™, a plant-extract from milk thistle, known for its targeted action at the root of pimples. It is currently the only active ingredient that acts directly on microcomedones, the invisible lesions beneath the skin that cause all blemishes. By acting at this early stage, Comedoclastin™ helps slow down the development of pimples before they even become visible. It is found in the Cleanance Comedomed+ formula, which acts both on blackheads already present on the skin's surface and on those forming at the root, for a complete action on imperfections.
Anti-acne cream: what to avoid
Certain substances can aggravate skin imbalances or cause adverse reactions, especially on sensitive skin or skin that has already been weakened by dermatological treatments.
- Irritants: denatured alcohol, synthetic fragrances, and certain preservatives can cause redness, tightness or burning sensations. For reactive skin, it is best to choose hypoallergenic, alcohol-free formulas, such as those from Avène’s products, which are dermatologically tested.
- Comedogenic occlusive agents: certain mineral oils or silicones can, in excess, clog pores and promote breakouts. The term “non-comedogenic” is a safety criterion that should not be overlooked if you have acne-prone skin.
- Abrasive scrubs or overly concentrated acid exfoliants: while gentle exfoliation is acceptable, overuse or incorrect use can damage the skin barrier. Be particularly careful with homemade peels, grainy scrubs, and multi-acid creams used without medical advice.
- Overly drying formulas: a skincare product that excessively dries out the skin can cause a rebound effect where the skin overproduces sebum to protect itself, which in turn worsens imperfections.
Avène anti-acne creams
At Avène, every anti-blemish product is formulated to deliver proven effectiveness while respecting the skin's sensitivity. The Cleanance range offers several complementary products designed to address different degrees of acne and skin types. Here is a selection of products to incorporate into your routine depending on your needs.
For moderately blemish-prone skin:
Cleanance Comedomed+ – Anti-blemish Intensive Care
A light, non-greasy cream that targets micro-comedones, responsible for pimples. It helps purify the skin and prevent recurrence from day 7.
Key active ingredients: comedoclastin™ (patented plant extract), Avène Thermal Spring Water
Avène's Cleanance Comedomed+ anti-blemish concentrate, has been the subject of an observational clinical study involving 48 patients with mild to moderate acne. 90% of them had no recurrence after 6 months of twice-daily use. A significant reduction in blemishes was also observed after 7 days.
For localised breakouts:
Cleanance Comedomed Peeling – Intensive spot breakout cream
Intensive treatment for persistent blemishes. Apply locally to inflamed areas during the day and all over the face in the evening.
Key active ingredients: Comedoclastin™, retinaldehyde, glycolic acid
+: visible results in 15 days (-92% spots), without drying out the skin
For sensitive skin or skin undergoing treatment:
Cleanance Hydra – Soothing cream
Designed for skin weakened by acne treatments (such as isotretinoin), this cream comforts, nourishes and reduces tightness.
Key active ingredients: glycolol, dextran sulphate, Avène Thermal Spring Water
+: +97% softer skin in 7 days, tested on people aged 12 and over
For additional deep-acting care:
Cleanance Aqua-Gel – Mattifying moisturiser
A daily skincare product with an aqua-gel texture, perfect as a make-up base, which intensely moisturises while providing long-lasting mattification.
Key active ingredients: niacinamide, monolaurin, pre-tocopheryl
+: Moisturises for 24 hours, reduces pores and shine
How should I incorporate an anti-acne cream into my daily routine?
When should I apply my acne cream?
In general, the cream should be applied morning and/or evening to clean, dry skin. Some products, such as Cleanance Comedomed, should be used twice a day on the entire face. The right time to apply an acne cream depends on its composition.
- In the morning, choose:
○ Products containing niacinamide or monolaurin, which help regulate sebum and soothe the skin without making it more sensitive to the sun.
○ Lightweight or mattifying textures, such as aqua gels, which help make-up stay in place and reduce shine.
○ Never forget sun protection, especially if you use an anti-acne treatment in the evening. - In the evening, opt for:
○ Products containing retinaldehyde, glycolic acid or salicylic acid, which are more effective, but can make the skin more sensitive to light.
○ Localised or concentrated products, such as targeted pimple creams, to treat inflammatory breakouts.
○ A more nourishing routine if the skin is irritated or sensitised by treatment.
If your cream contains exfoliating acids or retinoids, use it in the evening and apply sun cream the next morning to protect your skin from UV rays.
If you are using a topical medication (with a retinoid derivative, antibiotic, or antiseptic), apply it first in the evening to dry skin, as recommended by your doctor. Once the treatment has been absorbed or has dried slightly, you can apply Cleanance Comedomed+ as a complement. Its excellent skin tolerance makes it an excellent ally, even on skin that has been weakened by certain treatments.
Anti-acne cream: precautions to take
→ Avoid using too much: this does not speed up the effects and can cause irritation.
→ Do not combine several active treatments without medical advice (acids, retinoids, etc.). Applying several powerful active ingredient-based products (retinoids, BHA, AHA, benzoyl peroxide…) at the same time can cause irritation, excessive flaking or redness.
→ Wash your hands before and after application.
How long does it take to see results?
According to VIDAL magazine, the first effects of local acne treatments (creams, gels, lotions) are generally visible after 4 to 6 weeks of regular use, with gradual improvements beyond 8 weeks in many cases. Some products, such as Cleanance Comedomed, show results after just 7 days, but regularity is key.
A 3-step daily anti-acne routine
1. A gentle, purifying cleanser
Cleansing the skin removes excess sebum, impurities and make-up residue that can clog pores. Choose a purifying but non-aggressive cleansing gel, such as Avène’s Cleanance Cleaning Gel, which is soap-free and has a physiological pH. Avoid abrasive cleansers, rotating brushes or excessive mechanical exfoliation.
Cleanse your skin morning and evening without rubbing.
2. Well-thought-out moisturising
Contrary to popular belief, acne-prone skin needs just as much moisturising as other skin types. The key is to choose a product that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces irritation, and regulates sebum production without clogging pores. Rather than a traditional moisturising cream, opt for a comprehensive skincare product such as Avène’s Cleanance Comedomed+. Its formula targets blemishes while providing the necessary daily hydration. Fluid, non-comedogenic, and quickly absorbed, it is ideal for oily skin or skin weakened by treatments.
3. Essential sun protection
Many anti-acne active ingredients (retinoids, AHA/BHA acids) make the skin more vulnerable to the sun. However, unprotected exposure can worsen inflammation, promote the appearance of pigmentation spots, or slow down healing.
Use a fluid, mattifying, non-comedogenic sun cream with a minimum SPF of 30, ideally 50+.
Sun protection: why protect your skin when you have acne?
Under the effect of UV rays, pimples in the healing phase can leave more visible and persistent marks. Sun protection limits post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
- Prevent the rebound effect of excess sebum
The sun often gives the illusion of improvement, but this effect is temporary. The thickening of the skin caused by UV rays can actually clog pores, promoting the appearance of new blemishes when you return from your holiday.
Certain anti-acne active ingredients such as retinaldehyde, glycolic acid and benzoyl peroxide can make the skin more sensitive to the sun. Without protection, the risk of redness or superficial burns increases.
Opting for a sun care product tailored for acne-prone skin simplifies your morning routine while ensuring high protection. Avène's Ultra-Fluid Oil Control Sun Care SPF 50+ ticks all the boxes: it provides effective protection against UVB/UVA rays, regulates excess sebum, reduces shine, and offers a long-lasting matte finish. Its light, non-comedogenic texture makes it an ideal everyday companion.
In summer, or during prolonged exposure, remember to reapply your sun protection every two hours, even if it is included in your daily skincare routine.
What are the possible side effects of anti-acne creams?
Some acne creams may cause redness, dry skin, or mild tingling, especially when first used. These reactions are often temporary and are related to the exfoliating or antibacterial action of certain active ingredients (such as benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid or retinaldehyde). To minimise these reactions, apply the product every other day at first, use a moisturiser in addition, and avoid overly abrasive products.
If reactions persist, are intense, or painful, it is recommended that you consult a dermatologist.
When should you consult a dermatologist for acne?
If you notice that:
- Your blemishes persist or worsen despite following a skincare routine for at least 3 months.
- You suffer from inflammatory acne (painful red pimples, nodules).
- You have numerous pigmentation marks or post-acne scars.
- You don't know which active ingredients are compatible with your skincare routine.
- You are pregnant or undergoing hormone treatment.
A dermatologist can provide a personalised diagnosis and recommend a tailored topical or oral treatment to your skin as well as an effective and well-tolerated complementary skincare routine.
Do anti-acne creams work on hormonal acne?
For mild to moderate hormonal acne, certain topical treatments containing niacinamide, retinaldehyde, or salicylic acid may be enough to reduce blemishes and breakouts.
In cases of persistent, painful, or inflammatory acne (particularly on the lower face or chin), consulting a dermatologist is essential, they will help you find a suitable treatment (contraceptive, anti-androgen or oral treatment).
